Day 3
Sunday 13th May - Strachur to Glen Fyne (NN227159)
Despite a mild, overcast morning there were blessedly few midges, and as the cloud lifted, the views along this little ridge-walk were amazing. The terrain is peaty, and boggy in places, but alive with red grouse and other birds, and tiny bog-plants; and even in mist navigation is easy as there is a fence, and even bits of path (unless the sheep are regular ridge-baggers too), all the way to the final bealach. There, however, the peatbog becomes more trying and the fence exits stage left; only the last few metres below the summit of Cruach na Capull (the northern one of two hills of that name in the area) were nice springy dry turf and heather. There was also a single, large, gleaming-white marble-like boulder near the summit, unlike any other rock in the area. After racing the oncoming rainclouds to the top, I photographed Inveraray still basking in sun, then the terrain deteriorated again for the rainy cross-country descent: long, slippery grasses shrouding my boots, and concealing tussocks and deep ankle-snapping holes. It took me an hour to reach the road just below, opposite the mapped track to Ardno, which had been visible from the hill.
It seemed reasonable to check with a lady outside the first dwelling that the small road marked by OS on the coast did in fact go through to Ardkinglas and Cairndow. She kindly invited me indoors to enjoy much tea, much chat, and my first call to Challenge Control. She even sampled my "Challenge-special" oatcakes and requested the recipe! Her husband came home: they moved here five years ago after he had been for many years a gamekeeper in Gloucestershire, and they still love it.
The coast track was lush and lovely, with bluebells and hawthorn blossom, and the tangy smell of seaweed. Ardkinglas House appears ancient but was built only about a century ago, and its Pinetum contains, in addition to more types of conifer than I could identify, a brilliant array of rhododendron and azalea, all blooming spectacularly in May, with a yellow variety adding the bonus of sweet and powerful scent. The estate road emerges on to a small road by the picturesque Old Kirk at Kilmorich, then in Caindow there is the attractive Stagecoach Inn, where I ascertained (for future reference) that B&B costs £30-£45, and meals are served all day.
photo © Jean Turner
photo © Jean Turner
Sadly, I needed to push on a bit farther to maintain my schedule, and I continued up past the brewery into Glen Fyne, where some local children were having a wonderful time on a rope-swing, finally halting by the river just before the road (now tarmac up to the reservoir) swept uphill. Having seen no other Challengers since Ardrishaig, I was delighted when three hove into view: David with friends Richard and Monica planned to continue, camping nearer the reservoir, and since they aimed to depart by 7 a.m., I admitted regretfully that I probably would next meet them in Montrose.
