Day 11
Monday 16th May - Tolmount to Clova Inn
photo © Jean Turner
And I was glad of it, although I shall definitely adopt the high-camping practice again. Which day have we reached? It never seems to matter much up there, but it must be Day 11. The wind and snow rattled the tent (which coped admirably), and after brightening up with daybreak, the tent interior suddenly darkened again, coated with curtains of snow!
An hour's wait until 6am showed no suggestion of improvement, as the mists rolled down from the summits around, and fresh snow showed at the edge of the flysheet.
A quick decision and a quick pack-up, and by 7am I was heading cautiously (haste being the only real risk factor in this situation) down the burn, to join Jock's Road just above the quaint, almost invisible bothy marked "Davy's Bourragh". Not far below that, at about 8a.m., a lone Challenger was striking camp. He later admitted to wondering whence this wild female had appeared from the hills that early. Ah well, at least nobody burns witches any more.
That end of Jock's Road is unpleasantly rocky in descent; at least it was that day, for the old knees. And perhaps I had dressed too hurriedly for I also acquired two brand new and very painful blisters.
photo © Jean Turner
Paul, the surprised Challenger from earlier, caught up as I changed my boots for sandals at the roadhead in Glen Clova, and kept me company along the road and over lunch at the Clova Inn.
The temptation to join him in that afternoon's continuation east was strong, but my feet were loudlydemanding a break if they were to be expected to finish. I booked into the bunkhouse, then made the inspired guess that a nice old-fashioned hotel like this might have a room with a BATH...and they had!
Wild extravagance, but renaissance for the feet. I spent half the afternoon in one, and had another before bed, and another in the morning: the Challengers whom I joined in the bar (including the quartet of Balerno Boys last seen at Alltbeithe) apparently dubbed me the "three-baths-lady". I'm sure I've been called worse.
